By: Martin Brunner
STOC# 637 PanEuro# 42
Vienna, AuSTria, Europe
1. Remove Saddlebags
2. Remove Seat
3. Remove Side Covers
4. Remove Belly Pan
5. Remove Grey side fairings (the ones with the pockets)
6. Remove Lower fairings including the tip wing covers
7. Pull the speedo cable from wheel-drive (Philips bolt)
8. Remove the U-shaped fairing below headlight & around radiator inlet
9. Drain radiator at it's plug (goes faster with cap off)
10. Remove the horn
11. Remove the hose clamps from radiator/hoses
12. Remove the 2 M6 bolts holding the radiator on its top (getting it out requires a bit of fiddling, it's bottom is sited with a dot into a rubber in the frame)
13. Remove the 2 silver covers in front of the valve covers (2 hex bolts each)
14. Remove the spark plugs
15. Remove the two upper T-belt housing covers up on the heads
16. The larger middle timing belt cover gets a bit tricky since it's somehow fixed with the clutch-cover (doing it right would require one to remove/open the clutch cover as well). Normally, it can be removed without loosening the clutch cover (requires some patience).
17. After the first time, the cover can be modified with a knife or a Dremel tool to make installation and subsequent removal quite a bit easier. It normally gets hung up on the crank-pulley bolt. Some silicone grease on the seals will also help.
18. After all of this is done, the T-belt is now fully accessible
Remove the old Timing Belt
1. Note that the crank-pulley and the 2 cam-pulleys are marked. The c/pulleys have lines (not dots, the lines are the marks) and the crank-pulley a mark for #1 TDC (top dead center). All three of the pulley marks have opposites on the housing (little arrows).
2. Using a 17mm ratchet, turn the crank pulley (in the engine's normal direction) till all three are matching their respective housing marks. Be sure to check this very carefully. Double check to be really sure!
3. Don't move any of the pulleys during the following work stages
4. Remove the "guide-disc" from the LHS cam-pulley (12mm nut). Don't move the pulleys from the marks!
5. Identify the spanner pulley; it's located almost fully on the RHS (riding direction) and has a base with a spring. Loosen its center-bolt and push it downward to clear the T-belt from tensioner, leave it there. It would be best to replace it together with the T-belt, but that's just an opinion).
6. The T-belt can now be carefully removed. Some fiddling will be needed around the crank-pulley, but it's ok. Wash your hands before opening the packing of the new T-belt. Oil and antifreeze are bad for the belt.
Install the new Timing Belt
1. Get it onto the crank-pulley
2. Over the LHS cam-pulley
3. Over the middle guide roll
4. Over the RHS cam-pulley
5. Check now carefully to see if both cam-pulleys are still matching the marks, itís easy to get it wrong by 1 sprocket
6. Over the spanner pulley
7. Be sure the T-belt is correctly aligned, be sure that all the marks are still aligned. If you are absolutely sure, then loosen the bolt for the spanner pulley and let it snap onto the T-belt. Torque the bolt to 40NM.
8. Replace the guide disc on LHS cam-pulley, torque to 27NM
9. Finally, put it back together in reverse order
10. When ready and fully nervous to see if it will start, leave the "kill" switch in OFF position for 2 starter cranks, just in case. If something is wrong, hopefully it will cause less damage.
Adam Koczarski's Step_by Step Photo Guide
Mike Martin's Coolant Hose and Timing Belt Guide
PanEuro ST1100 Website